Best Cocktail Bars in Lyon

Running in parallel to Lyon's coffee renaissance is a robust cocktail movement. France is traditionally a land of wine and Belgian beers (there's nothing quite like a platter of meat and cheese with some sliced bread and French red to start an evening off right), but the last few years have seen an apparent uptick of interest in the art... Continue Reading →


Best Coffee Shops in Lyon

There's a big difference between what we think of as a "coffee shop" in the United States and the traditional French café, which is more of a multi-purpose refreshment center. The French café has sidewalk tables and a dim interior, serves meals at certain hours and beer, wine, and absolutely terrible coffee the rest of the time,... Continue Reading →

Mix-and-Match Lyon

As I said in my last post, Lyon is my favorite French city by far, and seriously underrated. A few years ago, an important world leader was visiting the city, and I remember hearing people express their delight and surprise at the honor. I wasn't surprised at all, but I was impressed by the Lyonnais pride without arrogance. If you get... Continue Reading →

Why Lyon is the Best French City

Paris can kiss my ass. There, I said it. Go ahead and report me to the French Culture Police (actually there probably is some kind of culture regulation office in France, but by the time you file the paperwork complaining about me, I’ll be long gone…ha!) The iconic romance of “The City of Lights” persists, and it’s not undeserved. If... Continue Reading →

What ze ‘ell? French Habits You Won’t Find on a List of Stereotypes

Many Americans have a mental image of "French Life" that runs somewhere along these lines: smoking at outdoor café tables, bicycling alongside a river with a baguette under an arm, wearing scarves and generally looking "chic," drinking wine while discussing culture and art. And of course, all of this takes place with the Eiffel Tower as backdrop,... Continue Reading →

Field Trip to a Football Game Takes a Strange Turn

I'm American, so it's not surprising that my personal experience watching football (the kind with the round ball, not the lemon-shaped one) has been pretty limited. I had some childhood friends who were into it, including one of UK origin who kicked everyone's ass whenever we had a soccer day in gym class, but it mostly stayed... Continue Reading →

Lyon and Shopping… for Those Who Hate Shopping

In general, I find shopping to be about as fun as going to the dentist. It’s boring, tedious, uncomfortable, and expensive. That’s why it took me a while to discover that I actually liked shopping in Lyon, that the city is full of lovely little shops run by talented designers and artists hoping to sell... Continue Reading →

Sunday at the Saône Markets

On a clear blue-and-yellow morning, there are few things more satisfying than a stroll through the art, book, and food markets along the Saône. The art market, on the west side of the river, displays everything from jewelry to sculpture and paintings, some of it a bit scary but most of it impressive. Though the art... Continue Reading →

Secret Passageways

Hundreds of covered alleyways called traboules burrow through Lyon’s older neighborhoods and harbor relics from across the centuries: among them, metalwork, fountains, and sculpture from the Roman Empire onward. Silk workers used them to transport silk in the 19th century, resistance fighters used them to evade Nazis during World War II, and tourists use them to annoy... Continue Reading →

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